FAQ's

What is your lead time on actions.
Our AVERAGE lead time is running at 6-9 months.

How do I go about ordering an action?
You can contact us directly or contact one of the companies that resell our actions

Use our handy tool to find the right action for your need – ACTION SELECTOR

Can I have a custom serial number engraved?

No, we no longer offer custom serial number options!

We may be able to engrave or laser engrave a custom number, word, or logo elsewhere on the action body. We will charge accordingly for design (if applicable), programming, and machine time. We will not move our logo or serial number to accommodate any special engraving requests. Note that aluminum actions cannot be laser engraved after anodizing. Action bodies to be engraved after nitride will be charged an additional $65 handling fee and the cost of an engraving tool on top of standard engraving fees.

Coating Concerns on actions and parts

We strive to bring the absolute best product to our customers from machine work to final product. We shop for the best companies to work with but unfortunately, we cannot guarantee the finish or durability of a coating from a secondary supplier.

For Nitride, the finish can vary from a shiny to matte. The color varies between black and golden brown. The surface finish can sometimes have faint spots and holes often a golden hint. The case hardening is effective even after the color fades in wear areas.

For Anodize, the surface finish is typically smooth black, but can have a grey or purple hint to the color. Surfaces are typically smooth, but slight texture/pitting can occur. While hard-coat anodizing is extremely wear resistant, it can be chipped easily.

For Bluing, we typically get phenomenal surface finishes, but the color will fade in wear areas.

We polish in house and can ensure shiny finish out the door! We do not remove all machine marks to maintain dimensional accuracy. Just remember to keep up on cleaning and greasing your polished components!

AFTERMARKET COATINGs on ALUMINUM ACTIONS: We do not recommend high heat exposure on our aluminum actions. High heat exposure will void your warranty. Low heat Cerakote applied by a qualified technician to non-functional surfaces is generally safe but may void your warranty. Please note that the Teflon in the hard coat anodizing makes it difficult to get Cerakote to coat evenly and stick. The Teflon also acts like a insulator and will cause catastrophic failure if electrically charged coatings are applied to the actions.

AFTERMARKET COATINGs on STEEL ACTIONS: Aftermarket coatings on steel actions are generally harmless. Nevertheless we reserve the right to refuse warranty claims on coated products.

Repairs, Upgrades & Modifications: (As of 2/25/2026)
All actions must be sent to us by an FFL holder and all actions will be returned to an FFL holder. Due to constantly changing shipping carrier policies and state laws, this is the best way to handle action returns. Bolts and other “non serialized” components can be sent directly to us. Please include your Contact Information, Return Shipping Information and Detailed Notes of concerns or requested modifications. We charge by the hour + return shipping.

Prints:
Prints are available to view on each action. Find the actions here – ACTIONS

Specifications:

Material and hardness of major action components:
Bolt: 4140; 40 or 44 RC depending on action
Bolt Handle: 17-4 SS
Firing pin: 1144-fatigue proof
Shroud: 303 SS
Cocking Piece: 1018 Carburized
Body: 17-4 SS; 36-38 RC
Body: 4140 CM; 36-38 RC
Body: 7075-T6 Aluminum; hard coat anodize

Action body to bolt clearance: 

2 lug (.72 dia. bolt) Benchrest actions: .0015-.002 inch (Bore: .720, Bolt: .7185)

3 lug Benchrest actions: .002-.0025 inch (Bore: .9015, Bolt: .899)

Repeater actions: .0030 to .0035 inch (Bore: 720, Bolt: .7170 to .7165)

Firing pin info:
Firing pin travel: .230-.250 inch.
Firing pin tip diameter: .070 inch. (.087″ on BMG bolt faces)
Firing pin protrusion: .054-.056 inch standard. Up to .062″ on certain models

Lock time:
2.2 milliseconds

Instructions:

How to remove firing pin assembly from bolt

On all bayonet style bolts you just need to twist the cocking piece & shroud AWAY from the cocking ramp. When the cocking piece lines up with the edge of the bolt handle it will pop out in your hand. To reinstall the assembly line up the ears of the shroud with the slots in the bolt and push together, when fully inserted twist TOWARD the cocking ramp making sure NOT to fall into it. Just before the ramp you will feel the cocking piece fall into the small detent that holds it in place.

How to fully disassemble the firing pin (FOR OLD .250 Dia Firing Pins)

Remove firing pin assembly from bolt, see instructions above. With the firing pin assembly out of the bolt the first thing you may want to do is measure the location of the firing pin in relation to the shroud so you can go to the same dimension when you put it back together. Next you will need to remove the TWO (2) set screws holding the cocking piece to the firing pin. These screws are installed using Loctite 222MS (low strength) and it often helps to heat up the cocking piece with a torch or even a cigarette lighter, it only needs heated up to the point you don’t want to touch it. Then using a GOOD sharp 1/16” allen wrench remove the first set screw, then put the wrench back in the hole and remove the second screw. Now the firing pin can be removed from the cocking piece. To do this we have found that it is quick and easy to use a ½” cordless drill to grab the firing pin, put the firing pin into the chuck so that the jaws are close to the large flange (you will be clamping on the .17” portion of the pin not the .070” tip) now put the drill in reverse (counter clockwise) so that you are unscrewing the firing pin. Unscrew the firing pin until the shroud and cocking piece come apart.

When you are ready to put it back together do everything in reverse. We find that when screwing the firing pin back into the cocking piece it is easiest to put the back of the shroud against the side of a table or door frame and hold the cocking piece against the front side of the slot. This allows you to compress the firing pin spring easily and the firing pin can quickly begin threading into the cocking piece (the drill needs to be turning clockwise as it is a right hand thread). Thread it back to the dimension you took before taking it apart or use the instructions below on how to adjust the firing pin fall, when done install the two setscrews using the Loctite 222, do not use anything more aggressive or you may not be able to get it apart in the future.

How to fully disassemble the firing pin (FOR NEW .280 Dia Firing Pins)

Remove firing pin assembly from bolt, see instructions above. First you will need to remove the TWO (2) set screws holding the cocking piece to the firing pin. These screws are installed using Loctite 222MS (low strength) and it often helps to heat up the cocking piece with a torch or even a cigarette lighter, it only needs heated up to the point you don’t want to touch it. Then using a GOOD sharp 1/16” allen wrench remove the first set screw, then put the wrench back in the hole and remove the second screw. Now the firing pin can be removed from the cocking piece. To do this we have found that it is quick and easy to use a ½” cordless drill to grab the firing pin, put the firing pin into the chuck so that the jaws are close to the large flange (you will be clamping on the .17” portion of the pin not the .070” tip) now put the drill in reverse (counter clockwise) so that you are unscrewing the firing pin. Unscrew the firing pin until the shroud and cocking piece come apart.

When you are ready to put it back together do everything in reverse. We find that when screwing the firing pin back into the cocking piece it is easiest to put the back of the shroud against the side of a table or door frame and hold the cocking piece against the front side of the slot. This allows you to compress the firing pin spring easily and the firing pin can quickly begin threading into the cocking piece (the drill needs to be turning clockwise as it is a right hand thread). Thread it on until the cocking piece bottoms out on the firing pin. When done install the two setscrews using the Loctite 222, do not use anything more aggressive or you may not be able to get it apart in the future. There is no firing pin adjustment needed on this style.

How to adjust the firing pin fall on .250 diameter (ONLY) firing pins

First note that the firing pin protrusion is set from the factory but the firing pin travel distance can be adjusted slightly on actions produced before 2014. With our new large diameter firing pin the travel distance is preset from the factory and should not be adjusted. The new pin measures .280” diameter (area under the spring), the old pin is .250” diameter.

If you have a model DS or one of our actions that has an adjustable trigger hanger you can turn the hanger 180 degrees, or install a different hanger for a total change of .030”. Standard position of the hanger is to have 0 forward and 30 at the rear of the gun. If you want .030” more firing pin fall take out the hanger and trigger and install with the 30 forward, this moves the trigger rearward by .030”. Doing this may cause the bolt to not close smoothly and so you may want to use the 10-20 hanger to fine tune to get the best closing feel along with the most firing pin travel. Again on the 10-20 hanger whatever number is forward is the amount of additional firing pin travel you have from the 0 position.

The other thing you can do is make sure that the firing pin is in the correct position within the cocking piece. This can move over time if someone has taken the firing pin apart and not assembled it correctly. To do this we recommend having a firing pin removal tool. When the cocking piece/shroud is twisted and the cocking piece moves to the bottom of the ramp there MUST be some free play. It should be between .010” and .020” gap from the end of the cocking piece to the bottom of the cam. (See photo below). NOTE: This dimension is preset and is not adjustable on firing pins produced for new actions beginning mid 2014, these pins measure .280 diameter under the firing pin spring.

If there is less distance between these surfaces you will need to unscrew the firing pin from the cocking piece (NOTE: REMOVE BOTH SET SCREWS BEFORE TRYING TO TURN THE FIRING PIN. Go ¼ turn at a time until you get to the numbers listed above (each ¼ turn equals .009” change). If you have more play then listed, screw the firing pin INTO the cocking piece, go ¼ turn at a time and re check until you get in the range listed above. Once you have it where you want it, reinstall the set screws using Loctite 222. Also make sure the bolt handle is NOT touching your stock, if it is it will limit the firing pin travel and will cause the cocking piece to hit the bolt body resulting in a loss of accuracy and will damage the components.

Replacement Bolts for Repeaters:

When ordering a replacement bolt handle, complete bolt or bolt assembly for a repeater, it is important to verify which handle design you have. While all modular bolt noses are compatible with all modular handles, the handle shape is specific to the action body.

Square Handle Left and Round Handle Right

The newer square bottom design is shown on the left and our older round bottom design is shown on the right of the image above. The handle profile needs to match the action body shape to ensure the cocking piece is free and will not hit the ramp when fired. The extraction cam profile varies between the two and they are .08″ different in length.

Can I convert my 90 degree lift action to a 75 degree lift action?

We do not recommend swapping handles or inserts on actions to change to 75 degree lift.

General questions:
Will my scope fit using your short or tall rings? – Fill out our spread sheet and get your answer!

What barrel size do I use? For more detailed action specific information select action to find tenon print.

Model EX & EXS with 1.500 x 16tpi thread requires a minimum of 1.75 diameter barrel.
Model L & XL with 1.25 x 16tpi thread requires a minimum of 1.45 diameter barrel.
Model CT or L (1.55 dia body) with 1.187 x 16tpi thread require a minimum of 1.35 diameter barrel.
Model M, HR, Igniter LA, Vesper LA & Vesper M with 1.125 x 16tpi thread require a minimum of 1.25 diameter barrel.
Models SV, S, SB, B, DS, MB, VR, TR, Igniter SA, Vesper S, Vampire, Bumblebee, with 1.062 x 18tpi thread require a minimum of 1.20 diameter barrel.

How much torque do you need to put on the barrel?

Range 75-125 ft/lb. Note: 75 ft/lb is most often used if barrel is removed regularly.

Does BAT offer a “quick-change” barrel system?

At this time the answer is No.

Our goal is to build an action that will consistently produce the best accuracy possible. While the Quick Change Barrel system speeds up the changing process, we have Not found evidence that it will increase accuracy over a traditional threaded barrel. Our opinion is that nothing beats the consistency and accuracy of a barrel that is properly torqued with a barrel vice and action wrench.

Over the years we have found that few customers that purchase multiple caliber barrels or bolt faces actually do barrel swaps. Seems like most customer call back asking for a second receiver to just make a complete rifle.

Small screw torque spec (ALL in INCH POUNDS) (updated 12-14-2023)

8-40 scope base screws that screw into the action between .040 and .100 can be torqued between 15 in/lb.
8-40 scope base screws that screw into the action .100 or more can be torqued to 30 in/lb.
Scope ring cap screws (6-32): Use scope manufactures torque specifications, if no specification are given use 18 in/lb.
Picatinny ring cross screw (10-32) torque to 30 in/lb.
Action screws that are ¼-28 can be torqued to 50 in/lb.
Front trigger guard screw (10-32) can be torqued to 30 in/lb.

EX/EXS 3/8 -24 actions Screws can be torques to 160 in/lb. ONLY when used with aluminum or steel pillars.